PURBANCHAL SHREE AYYAPPA MANDIR

Different versions of stories about the incarnation of Lord Ayyappa are in circulation. There is a Vedic or Puranic deity Harihara Putra, born out of the holy union of Siva and the feminine form of Vishnu called Mohini at the Samudra Manthan (churning of milky ocean) during the Koorma Avatar at the beginning of the present Chatur Yuga.

Then there is a historical person, Manikantan, related to the Pandya dynasty of Madurai in present day Tamil Nadu, from a period 800 years ago. King Rajashekhara, the foster father of Lord Ayyappa belonged to this dynasty.

A just and precocious sovereign, King Rajashekhara was childless and prayed fervently to Lord Shiva for a child. On one of his hunting trips to the forests near River Pampa, he heard an infant's wails and found a beautiful child. A sadhu appeared and instructed him to take the infant, naming him Manikandan — one with a golden neck.

As a child, Manikandan was very intelligent and precocious. He excelled in martial arts and shastras and surprised his guru with his brilliance and superhuman talents. His guru concluded that the boy was no ordinary mortal but a divine being.

Meanwhile, a demon Mahishasura's sister Mahishi secured a boon that no being except the offspring of Vishnu and Shiva could slay her. Manikandan, the divine son born of their union, fought and defeated Mahishi in a fierce battle.

Following his divine mission, Manikandan returned riding Lord Devendra disguised as a tiger, accompanied by female devas as tigresses. His true identity was revealed to the wonder-struck king. Having accomplished his divine task, Manikandan aimed an arrow which fell at Sabarimala, where he instructed the King to renovate the existing Dharma Sastha temple built by Sage Parasurama. Manikandan then merged with the murti of Dharma Sastha.

Lord Manikandan stated emphatically that he would grace only those devotees who come for his darshan after observing forty one days' penance or vratam. Every year, millions converge upon Sabarimala irrespective of caste or creed, chanting 'Swami Saranam' and climbing the divine eighteen steps of the temple.

Nagarajav: The deity of Nagarajav is placed adjacent to the Sreekovil (sanctum sanctorum) of Lord Ayyappa. Pilgrims after the Darshan of Lord Ayyappa and Kannimoola Ganapathi, make their darshan and give offerings to Nagarajav.

Vavarunada: There is a place near the temple, east of Sannidhanam, dedicated to Vavar/Vapuran — a warrior thief/looter turned close friend of Lord Ayyappa.

Malikapurathamma: The most important upadevatha in Sabarimala. Malikappurathamma is considered as Devi Madurai-Meenakshi, the kula-devatha of Pandya dynasty. Main offerings include turmeric powder, saffron powder, jaggery, honey, plantain, and red silk.

Karuppu Swami & Karuppai Amma: Located on the right side of the sacred eighteen steps. They were people from the forest who helped Lord Ayyappa in his divine mission.

Valiya Kadutha Swami: The small shrine located on the left side of the holy steps. Also an attendant of Lord Ayyappa.

Mele Ganapathi: Adjacent to the sreekovil of the Sannidhanam. Devotees offer part of the broken ghee coconut to Sri Ganapathi. Ganapathi homam is the main offering.

'Ulsavam' is the annual festival held at Sabarimala temple during the Malayalam month of 'Meenam' or the Tamil month of 'Panguni' (March-April). The temple remains open for a period of 10 days during the 'Ulsavam'.

It begins with the hoisting of the temple flag, 'Kodiyettam'. Over the course of the next days, several special poojas including 'Ulsavabali' and 'Sree Bhootha Bali' are conducted. The 9th day marks 'Pallivetta', wherein Sree Ayyappa goes on a ceremonial procession to perform the royal hunt at Saramkuthi, followed by the Sabarimala 'Arattu' or holy dip at the Pampa river.

Special poojas to mark 'Panguni Uthram' draw the annual 'Ulsavam' to a close. 'Uthram' is the birth star of Sree Ayyappan.

Ponnambalamedu, one among the 18 hills, is located to the east of Sabarimala. It is considered as the origin (moola sthan) of Bhadra Kaali, the owner/adhi-devatha of all the 18 hills of Sabarimala.

It is believed that many ancient sages had performed severe tapas/penance for hundreds of years. The renowned female sage Sabari, the disciple of Sage Mathanga, had lived here in the Treta Yuga. Later Sabari met Lord Rama at Sabari Peetam and got salvation/moksham.

The divine Makara Jyoti is seen from Ponnambalamedu during the sunset of Makaram 1st every year, immediately after the deeparadhana in the Ayyappa temple. Millions of devotees eagerly wait with folded hands and sarana ghosham to have a darshan of this divine Makara Jyoti.

Malayidal (Maala Dhaaranam): Ideally, Vratam starts from the day when the pilgrim adorns a maala denoting willingness to undertake austerity. The devotee may wear a bead chain with a locket of Lord Ayyappa. Once the mala is worn, he will be called as 'Ayyappa' — God himself.

Mandala Vratam: Denotes austerity measures for a Mandala — duration of 41 days. Simple and pious living sans any vices is called for. Black is the recommended colour for clothes during the Vratam period as the colour denotes detachment from material things. Personal grooming such as cutting hair, shaving, and cutting of nails are not done during this period.

Kettunirakkal (Preparation of Irumudi): The preparation and packing of 'Irumudi kettu' for Sabarimala pilgrimage under the guidance of a Guruswamy. Only those who carry the Irumudi kettu on the head would be allowed to climb the 18 sacred steps. The ghee-filled coconut (neyy-thenga) symbolizes the body of the devotee — the ghee inside is the Jeeva-atma and the shell covering is the physical body.

Petta-Thullal: The ritualistic sacred dance by Ayyappa devotees at Erumely, en route to Sabarimala. It symbolises the victory of good over evil — the slaying of demoness Mahishi by Lord Ayyappa. Traditionally performed first by the Ambalappuzha Yogam members.

Traditional Path (Route 1 — Erumeli Route): The route via Erumeli is considered the traditional path as it is held that Ayyappan took this route to subdue Mahishi. It requires a trek of about 61 km through forest and hill tracks.

Key spots along the route: Perur Thodu (4 km from Erumeli — start of ascent), Kaalaketti (where Lord Shiva tied his vahan ox), Azhutha River, Kallidumkunnu, Inchipparakota, Karimala (7-level hill with 5 km ascent), and finally Pampa River.

The Sannidhanam is around 8 km from the Pampa river valley, passing through Neelimala, Appachimedu, Sabareepeedom and Saramkuthi.

Route 2: Erumely to Pampa via Mukkoottuthara, Pampavali, Plappally, Nilakkal, Chalakkayam, Pampa.

Route 3: Through Tamil Nadu via Cumbum, Theni to Pulmedu.

Pathinettampadi are the 18 divine steps to the 'Thirumuttam' of the Sabarimala temple. These steps have a length of 5 feet, width of 9 inches and height of 9 inches. In 1985, they were covered by 'Panchaloha' — a composition of five metals: gold, silver, copper, iron and tin.

Only those who carry Irumudi kettu and undergo 41 days' vratam are allowed to climb these steps. The pilgrim who climbs the Pathinettampadi for 18 times plants a young coconut tree at Sannidhanam and becomes a 'Guruswami'.

Symbolism of the 18 Steps:

• Steps 1–5 (Panchendriyas): Eyes (sight), Nose (smell), Tongue (taste), Skin (touch), Ears (hearing)
• Steps 6–13 (Ashtaragas): Kama (lust), Krodha (anger), Lobha (greed), Moha (temptation), Mada (pride), Maatsarya (envy), Ahamkara (ego), Dumpam (jealousy)
• Steps 14–16 (Thrigunas): Tamo Guna, Rajo Guna, Satva Guna
• Steps 17–18: Vidya (knowledge), Avidya (ignorance)

One who crosses all these steps becomes purified and attains eligibility to get the darshan of Lord Ayyappa.

1. Ponnambalamedu
2. Skandamala
3. Sundaramala
4. Nagarmala
5. Inchipparakotta
6. Karimala
7. Mayiladumala
8. Chittambalamedu
9. Sreepadam Mala
10. Pudussery Mamala
11. Mathangamala
12. Kalki Mamala
13. Nilackal Mala
14. Thalappara Mala
15. Thevar Mala
16. Kalaketty Mala
17. Neelimala
18. Sabarimala

• First meet a Guruswamy (one who has completed 18+ pilgrimages) and wear Mudra (special garland).
• Observe 41 days Vratha — bathe twice daily, wear vibhoothy, chant "Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa" 108 times.
• Wear clothes of black, blue or saffron colour only during Vratam.
• No haircut, no shaving. Eat fresh vegetarian food only.
• Always think of Swamy Ayyappa. See 'Swamy Ayyappa' in all other beings and call them as 'Swamy'.
• Avoid luxury, cosmetics, perfumes. Use mat or cot only for sleeping.
• Observe strict Brahmacharyam, both physically and mentally.
• After darshan, conduct Neyyabhishekam, accept prasadam, visit upa-devathas.
• Pampa is a holy river — never contaminate it. Avoid plastic at Sabarimala.
• After returning home, take bath, do saranaghosham, then remove the mala. Never remove mala before reaching home.

• The temple of Dharma Sastha at Sabarimala was consecrated by Sage Parashurama. Dharma Sastha is also known as Hariharaputra — the son of Hari and Hara.
• Lord Ayyappa took birth between 10th and 11th century as Manikantan in the Royal Palace of Pandalam and merged with the deity of Dharma Sastha.
• The form of Lord Ayyappa in Sabarimala is that of a Naishtika Brahmachari (eternal celibate), in Patta Yogasanam.
• Previously the temple opened only once a year from January 11 to 15. Now it is open from November 15 to January 20, plus the first five days of each Malayalam month.
• Devotees visiting Sabarimala increased from 10,000–15,000 in 1816 to 4–5 crores (40–50 million) nowadays.
• Devotees hail from not only Kerala but entire India as well as 25–30 foreign countries.
• Sabarimala is the best example of National Integration — Unity in Diversity.
• When one devotee starts vratam, all family members also observe it — more than 50% of Hindu families in South India are connected to Swamy Ayyappa.